Water is at the very heart of Launceston.
The city’s nestled at the meeting of two rivers – the North and South Esk Rivers – as they merge into the expansive, and tidal, Tamar River. If you followed the Tamar northwards from this confluence of waters, you would finally emerge at the estuary, where it meets the sea – with Greens Beach (and my friends’ lovely beach shack) on the western headland, and Low Head on the east.
It was founded around 1806, and I’ve always thought that they embraced its best features when it was established at the head of the Tamar River Valley. It really needs no fanfare to showcase its natural wilderness and inherent beauty. All you need is a pair of eyes, and some good walking shoes.
A meandering boardwalk to the Seaport Precinct leads to a variety of cafes with a perfect view of the water; there are walking tracks through bird filled wetlands to the 7 hectare Tamar Island; plus there are various options to take one of the river cruises along the Tamar, to rest your feet for a while, and have a scone or two.
But it’s the Cataract Gorge Reserve that is truly sensational. All 158 hectares of it.
West of the city, only 15 mins walk from the centre of town, you can behold towering sandstone cliffs, heavy boulders, and sheer, vertical drops to the rock-strewn South Esk river below. The zig-zag track follows the south cliffside, and is a steep climb that rises steadily and cuts a trail above the vast slabs of sandstone, scattered with bristly scrub and Eucalypts. If you turn and look back towards Launceston, you’ll see the view of the Tamar and the distant Seaport(above). The lovely Kings Bridge can be seen (shown below) from the other bank of the Gorge, on the much lower Cataract Walk – which is a sealed and relatively flat track that meanders around to the gardens – connecting to the other bank via the Alexandra Suspension Bridge. Another book reference? Yes, the latter pathway is the one that Dave and I chose, when we had our midnight ride to the Gorge, and he invented underwater cycling.
It’s easy to spend a day taking in the expansive views, hiking the dusty trails within the Reserve, riding the chairlift, and wallowing in the waters of the First Basin (if you can brave the fathomless cold waters, and the elusive eels – I’ve never seen one), or the adjacent swimming pool (if you’re less of a thrill seeker).
Peacocks still roam the gardens, shrilling their distinctive call – tay-oooool – and hovering around the cafe tables, ready to snatch your sandwich whenever you aren’t paying attention. On those warm Saturday afternoons, many years ago, when we used to take our towels to the First Basin and spend a day at the pool, we used to mimic them whenever we heard the birds calling in the distance. ‘Show us your tay-oooool…!’ we’d shout, laughing at the strange inflection of their chanting.
I still smile whenever I hear them.
Angela J Dawson 